Wednesday, April 30, 2014

The society and the information 29: information crosses the border 3

 current Guangzhou

< 1.  current Guangzhou  > 

I introduce to you an episode of the information crossing the border between countries that I experienced while traveling.

今回は、私が旅先で経験した国境を越える情報のエピソードを紹介します。


Guangzhou Station in the 1980s

< 2.  Guangzhou Station in the 1980s >

In Guangzhou, China
Several years after Tiananmen Square Incident (suppression of free speech in 1989 in Beijing), I traveled China for the first time.
At that time, the bad side of Chinese politics and economy was conspicuous in Japan.
A certain writer wrote up inferior China and won popularity, and I also read it.
I decided to go to China with having more curiosity than fear.

I sailed up the river from Hong Kong by a ferry and arrived at Guangzhou while looking at quiet countryside.
Modernistic high-rise buildings were only hotels, and high apartments of bricklaying were being built in some places.
This is currently one of the cities that accomplished big development, but at that time, it was simply vast population high-density place although it was famous for the historical merchant city.
Deng Xiaoping who looked at this city had confidence in the transition to market economies, and performed the economic reform from 1978, and then China's economy accomplished great development.


中国の広州で
北京で1989年に天安門事件(言論弾圧)が起きて数年経った頃、中国を始めて旅行しました。
当時、日本では中国の政治・経済の暗黒面が目立ち、不安視されていました。
作家黄文雄が中国の劣悪さを書き立て人気を博し、私も数冊読んでいました。
私は恐い物見たさで行くことにしました。

香港からフェリーで川を遡り、のどかな田園地帯を眺めながら広州に着きました。
そこは近代的な高層ビルはホテルぐらいで、所々に煉瓦積みの高いアパートが建設中でした。
現在は大発展を遂げた都市の一つですが、当時は、歴史ある商都市とは名ばかりの古びた広大な人口密集地でした。
鄧小平氏が、この地を見て市場経済化への意を強くし、1978年になどを経済特区にし、中国経済は大発展を遂げたのです。


Deng Xiaoping and slogan

< 3.  Deng Xiaoping and slogan >

Wandering at night
I continued walking the streets in Guanzhou alone from 9:00 p.m. of the weekend to 2:00 a.m. 
I felt an undulation that exceeded my prospect.
Though it was the midnight, the street was full of crowds of old and young, and i seemed that all went into the restaurant.
Furthermore, as the evening goes on, a lot of young men and women stood on the overpass of the big street crossing and they embraced each other and began kiss.
I felt the freedom and the hope being instead of the state power and the darkness to the silhouettes that were lighted up by streetlights.

The next day, when I had told the surprise to a Chinese interpreter, satisfactory answer came to me.
People of this area don’t believe an announcement of Beijing government from the old days, because people were coming and going to Hong Kong and moreover the truth was coming from Hong Kong by radio.”
When I boarded a ferry bound for Guangzhou in Hong Kong, I remembered that most of Chinese passengers had big bag of souvenir of Hong Kong.


夜の徘徊
私は、週末の夜9時から朝2時まで、広州の町中を一人で歩き続けました。
そこで私は予想を超えるうねりを肌で感じることになったのです。
真夜中だというのに、通りは老若男女の群衆で一杯になり、それぞれ飲食店に入って行きました。
さらに夜が更けると、大きな交差点の陸橋の上に若い男女が多数たむろし、抱き合いキスを始めた。
街灯に照らし出されたそのシルエットに、私は強権や暗さでなく、自由と希望を感じた。

次の日、中国人の通訳に、驚きを伝えると、納得の答えが返って来た。
「ここの人々は、昔から北京政府が何を言おうが、嘘を見抜き、信じていない。香港との行き来があり、またラジオなどで香港から真実が伝わってくるから。」
私が香港で広州行きのフェリーに乗る時、ほとんどの乗客の中国人が大きな土産品の袋を持っていたことを想いだした。


 current Guangzhou whole view

< 4.  current Guangzhou whole view

What I realized
Probably, there might have been already the energy that goes to free economy in  Guanzhou, like Deng Xiaoping had perceived it.
Without doubt prosperity of Hong Kong was accessible fact of the people.
The truth that is crossing the border between countries not only saves some oppressed people but also develops or releases people.

After all I understood that I could feel their consciousness and energy if I went there.

悟ったこと
この広州には、鄧小平氏が見抜いたように、自由経済に向かうエネルギーが既にあったのだろう。
それは香港の繁栄が身近で、疑うべくもない事実だったからです。

やはり現地に乗り込んでこそ、彼らの意識やエネルギーを掴めることが良くわかった。
国境を越える真実は、一部の虐げられている人を救うだけでなく、人々を成長や解放へと向かわせることもある。
国内に閉じこもり、嫌中・嫌韓の言説に酔いしれていると真実から益々遠ざかることになるだろう。




Sunday, April 27, 2014

Travel to Hokuriku 9: the last Torigoe castle ruins

 castle gate 

< 1.  castle gate >

 This time, I introduce to you an event that happened in the country of Kaga (Ishikawa prefecture) at 430 years ago.
In Japanese history, the event was the end of a rare “a country that peasant had ruled “

今回は、430年前、この加賀の国で起きた出来事を紹介します。
それは日本史上、希有な「百姓の持ちたる国」の終焉だった。


castle ruins

< 2. castle ruins


castle ruins

< 2. castle ruins


the country of Kaga 

< 4.  the country of Kaga >
A red frame shows the range of Tedori Ravine’ map, and a red circle shows Torigoe castle ruins.
A left yellow circle shows Yoshizaki-gobo.

赤枠は手取峡谷地図の範囲を示す。
左の黄色丸は吉崎御坊を示す。


Tedori Ravine

< 5. Tedori Ravine >
Two arrows show the direction of panoramic photo and a black circle shows waterfall Watagataki.

矢印はパノラマ撮影の方向、黒丸は綿ヶ滝を示す。


 panoramic photo of 180 degrees 

< 6. panoramic photo of 180 degrees >

Above: photo of a red arrow. Center is the castle keep.
Below: photo of a pink arrow.

上: 赤矢印の撮影。中央が本丸跡。右手奥が手取川の下流で金沢方面。
下: ピンク矢印の撮影。奥が白山方向。

What occurred at the Torigoe castle?
The place of Tedori Ravine drove away many armies of famous warlords once. 
However, this castle that had resisted till the last was conquered, and the country of Kaga was ruled by a warlord of the Sengoku period.
People that defended this castle were bladesmen and peasants of believers of the True Pure Land Buddhism.
The people included merchant, priest, and fisherman too.
Till then, this country of Kaga had managed by the conference of people of all classes for 110 years.
This country had been independent of a central government or neighboring warlords.
As for this, the major reason is the True Pure Land Buddhism permeated Hokuriku (Fukui, Ishikawa, Toyama).


鳥越城で何が起きたのか
この手取峡谷の地は、かつて上杉謙信の軍勢をも退け、幾多の戦いを勝ち抜いた。
しかし最後まで織田軍に抵抗したこの城が攻め滅ぼされ、加賀の国はその軍門に下った。
この城に立て籠もったのは浄土真宗門徒の侍や百姓(一向一揆)だった。
加賀は、それまでの110年の間、あらゆる階層の人々の合議によって国を運営してきた。
室町時代末期より、この加賀は戦乱の時代の中央政権や隣国の大名から独立していた。
これは浄土真宗が北陸(越前、加賀、越中)に浸透したことが大きい。


a statue of holy Rennyo 

< 7.  a statue of holy Rennyo  >


Reappearance figure of Yoshizaki-gobo 

< 8.  Reappearance figure of Yoshizaki-gobo >

Activity of Rennyo
In 1471, Rennyo(the family head of the True Pure Land Buddhism) escaped Kyoto, built the temple at Yoshizaki, and began propagation.
The faith spread in an instant.
In this period, war became common in various areas in Japan, and, on the other hand, bladesmen and peasants in towns or villages strengthened a binding force of the
Community.
The binding force and the faith became a big energy, and the country came to have the military power that is equal to neighboring warlords.


蓮如の活躍
1471年、浄土真宗の8代門跡の蓮如が、京都の迫害から逃れて吉崎に御坊を建設し、布教を始めた。
その信仰はまたたく間に北陸から東北まで広がった。
室町時代から戦国時代まで、各地で戦が常態化し、一方で町村の百姓や侍達は共同体結合を強めた。
この結合力(惣や一揆)と信仰心が、大きなエネルギーとなり、やがて弱体化した守護と肩を並べる力を持つようになった。



 


reproducing the army corps of peasants in Torigoe castle



< 9.  reproducing the army corps of peasants in Torigoe castle > 

The religious group got involved in war
The country of Kaga was not able to part with the military power in exchange for the independence.
Therefore,the fight continued inside and outside Kaga.
Oda of famous warlord attacked Osaka that was key center of the True Pure Land Buddhism, and whole Hokuriku.
In front of the big army, the last defense became only Torigoe castle in Tedori Ravine.

On March 1, 1582, snowy fields and mountains dyed with the blood of the villager who resisted in the Torigoe castle.
Thus, the country that peasant had achieved autonomy in was over.


戦乱に巻き込まれた教団
加賀の国は独立と引き換えに、武力を手放せなくなった。
そうして他宗派や戦国大名、真宗教団内の覇権を巡って争いは続いた。
織田信長軍は真宗の拠点であった大阪(石山本願寺)と加賀を含む北陸一帯を攻めた。
織田は石山本願寺と和議をなし、また加賀の大半を掌中に収め、残るは手取峡谷の鳥越城だけとなった。

1582年31日、雪の山野は鳥越城で抵抗した村人の血で染まった。
こうして百姓(侍や農民、商人、僧侶)が自治した国(加賀=石川県)は潰えた。


なぜ加賀の国だけが独立を長く保てたのだろうか?
当時、京都を中心にした近畿一円では一揆が頻発し、百姓が武士団に要求を呑ませることもあった。
しかしそれらは長く続かなかった。
加賀が存続出来た理由は、浄土真宗への信仰が篤く、極楽往生を願い、死を厭わない抵抗心と強い団結力にあった。
さらに、巨大になった真宗教団は幕府の中枢(細川家)や戦国大名と連携を図り、加賀を統制、支援していた。
次いで、京都から遠く、大きな戦国大名の干渉から免れた。

At the end
I end travel report of Hokuriku.
Thank you.

Especially, from France, many people visited to my blog.
In Hokuriku, there are many hot springs, delicious seafood, Japanese tradition craft, and snowy mountains (Tateyama, Hakusan).
You must have enjoyed these.
Please come to Hokuriku from overseas by all means.


最後に
北陸旅行記をこれで終わります。
ありがとうございました。

特に、私のブログにフランスから多くの方が訪問していただきありごとうございました。
北陸には、多くの温泉、旨い海の幸、日本の伝統工芸品、雪深い立山・白山などが楽しめます。
是非とも海外から、北陸にお越し下さい。





Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Travel to Hokuriku 8: going around marketes





morning market of Wajima

< 1.  morning market of Wajima >

Today, I introduce to you an indispensable pleasure of trip that is a morning market and roadside stations.
These are roadside stations in Komatu or Noto, and the morning market of Wajima. 
In April of spring, the best seafood in season is some kinds of shrimp, a seaweed, and firefly squid.

今日は、無くてはならない旅の楽しみ、朝市と道の駅を紹介します。
道の駅のこまつ木場潟と能登食祭市場、輪島の朝市です。
4月、能登と富山の海の旬は、甘えび、白えび、もずく、ホタルイカです。


Roadside station “Komatu Kibagata”
こまつ木場潟

It contacts to Komatu Bypass road, and is faced with Kibagata of a big lake.
ここは小松バイパスに接し、大きな木場潟にも面しています。

Roadside station “Komatu Kibagata”

< 2.  Local vegetables are lined up >

Roadside station “Komatu Kibagata”

< 3.  shelves of various souvenirs >
Pickled vegetables and souvenirs of Kutani chinaware were lined up.
Somewhere else, bowls and chopsticks of Yamanaka lacquer were also lined up. 

九谷焼の土産品と漬け物が並んでいる。
他に山中塗りのお椀や箸も置いてあった。


Roadside station “Noto Syokusai market”
能登食祭市場

It is faced with Nanao bay near Wakura Onsen, and we can enjoy the view of the bay.
There is a number of restaurants, souvenir shops of Noto and fresh fish stores in here.
I recommend this market to a lover of seafood. 

ここは和倉温泉近くの七尾湾に面して、湾の眺望を楽しめる。
ここにはレストランから能登の土産物店、鮮魚店が多数入っています。
魚介類好きには外せない所でしょう。

Roadside station “Noto Syokusai market”

< 4.  dried fish shop > 

Roadside station “Noto Syokusai market”

< 5.  fresh fish shop >

morning market of Wajima 
輪島の朝市

This morning market is one of three biggest morning markets of Japan, and is in street of around 400m near Wajima harbor.
Seafood of the Sea of Japan is displayed close together in the street.
Spry big mama deals with us cheerily.  

この朝市は日本三大朝市の一つで、輪島港に近く400m程の商店街で行われる。
露天には日本海の魚介類が所狭しと並んでいる。
元気なおばあさん達が、陽気に相手してくれる。

morning market of Wajima

< 6.  dried fishes >
These were all thing that I wanted to eat.
There are many things of reasonable price, and many tourists buy it.

私にはどれも食べたくなる物ばかりでした。
手頃な値段のものが多く、多くの観光客が買っていく。

morning market of Wajima

< 7.  There is from the seafood to the produce of the fields >

morning market of Wajima

< 8.  chopsticks of Wajima lacquer >
Wajima is a famous production center of lacquering, and a lot of shops of the wooden bowl and the chopsticks are in this street.

輪島は漆塗りの有名な産地で、お椀や箸の店も多く並んでいる。
日本の古い漆塗りはここ能登半島で、7000年前の櫛が見つかっている。
ここ輪島に石川県輪島漆芸美術館があり、歴史や現代美術の作品がわかる。



Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Travel to Hokuriku 7: going around seashores

 Sosogi seashore

< 1.  Sosogi seashore > 

Today, I go around the seashores of Noto peninsula from Toyama bay.
I introduce to you Toyama bay, Nanao bay, terraced rice paddies, and Sosogi seashore. 

今日は、富山湾から能登半島の海岸を巡ります。
富山湾、氷見海岸、七尾湾、千枚田、曽々木海岸を紹介します。


a view of Tateyama mountain range and Toyama bay from Shinnminato bridge that we were driving through.

< 2.  a view of Tateyama mountain range and Toyama bay from Shinnminato bridge that we were driving through. >


 seashores in the neighborhood of Himi 

< 3.   seashores in the neighborhood of Himi >
This sea is Toyama bay.
Above: Toyama harbor and Tateyama mountain range will be visible in the back.
Below: A tip of Noto peninsula is in the back.

この海は富山湾です。
上の写真: この奥に富山港と立山連峰が見えるはずです。
下の写真: 奥が能登半島の先端です。


looking down at Nanao bay from Betusyodake Sky Deck 

< 4.  looking down at Nanao bay from Betusyodake Sky Deck >
I recommend visiting in here because it is a superb view.
Two photos are left hand of the scenery and right hand of it.
Wakura Onsen is located at the right end of lower photograph.

ここは絶景ですので立ち寄られることをお薦めします。
上と下の写真は、左と右を撮り別けたものです。
下の写真の右端に和倉温泉があります。


a view of Wajima harbor in the distance 

< 5.  a view of Wajima harbor in the distance >
The sea in photos below this is the Sea of Japan all.
以下の写真の海は日本海です。


terraced rice paddies 

< 6.  terraced rice paddies >
Although I had desired to visit in this terraced rice paddies, I was surprised when I visited.
Roadside station “ Senmaida Pocket park” had been made here.
A parking lot, a restaurant, and a prospect deck were made, and it became convenient.
I felt that there were many lost things.

千枚田に訪れるのが楽しみだったのですが、着いたら驚きました。
道の駅「千枚田ポケットパーク」が出来ていました。
駐車場、レストラン、展望デッキが出来て便利になっているのですが、失われたものも多いような気がします。


 salt farm

< 7.  salt farm
Here, people dry seawater in the sun and seem to make salt.
It is different from roadside station " Suzu village of salt farm".

海水を日干しにして塩を造っているらしい。
ここは道の駅「すず塩田村」とは異なる。

Sosogi seashore

< 8.  Sosogi seashore >
Azure sea and sky, white wave, long sandy beach, mountain, sunlight and wind were comfortable all.
I was satisfied about this trip and finished it at this land at last.

紺碧の海と空、白い波、長い砂浜、迫る山、陽差しも風も心地よく、この地を最後に満足して旅行を終えました。


Sosogi seashore

< 9.  Sosogi seashore  >
This photo was taken from the reverse side of restaurant "Imashin" that we had a lunch.
The seafood’s bowl that I ate while watching this scenery was very good.

この写真は、昼食をとった食堂「今新」の裏から撮ったものです。
この景色を見ながら食べた「能登海鮮丼」は良かったです。






Monday, April 21, 2014

Travel to Hokuriku 6: Hokuriku’s atmosphere

 a view of Hakusan Mountain from Tedori Ravine

< 1.  a view of Hakusan Mountain from Tedori Ravine >

Today, I introduce to you nature of Hokuriku and the scenery of villages.
A livelihood that has been supported by the rich blessing and has born with rigor of winter is breathing there.

今日は、北陸の自然と里の風景を紹介します。
冬の厳しさと豊かな恵みに支えられた暮らしがそこに息づいています。

A village at the foot of Hakusan Mountain

白山山麓の里

a view in direction of Hakusan Mountain from near Mengataki waterfall 

< 2.  a view in direction of Hakusan Mountain from near Mengataki waterfall >

Two ridges of right and left sandwiches Tedori Ravine, and the flat land becomes rice paddy.
Tedori Ravine is under the group of high- tree on the left.

左右二つの尾根が手取峡谷を挟み、平坦部は稲田になっている。
左の高木群の下が手取峡谷です。


 a view of the valley from Torigoe castle ruins 

< 3.  a view of the valley from Torigoe castle ruins >
These two photos photographed opposite directions from same summit of the mountain.
Above photo shows areas along Tedori ravine, and the left hand shows the direction of Kanazawa.
The continued evergreens in the fields show Tedori River.
Below photo shows a village along Dainichi River.
If becoming winter, this ground will be covered with deep snow.

この2枚の写真は同じ山頂から逆方向を撮ったものです。
上の写真は手取川沿いで、左側が下流の金沢方面です。
田畑の中の常緑樹の連なりが手取川です。
下の写真は大日川沿いの村です。
この地は冬になると深い雪に覆われます。


A village of the foot of a mountain in the suburbs of Komatsu city

小松市近郊の山麓の村

 a guardian deity(Shinto shrine) of the village

< 4.  a guardian deity(Shinto shrine) of the village >

A big shrine on the top of these stairs watches for this village.

この階段の上には村を見守る大きな神社がある。


The village of above-mentioned guardian deity

< 5.  The village of above-mentioned guardian deity >
The cherry tree at the right side of upper photo shows the cherry tree of stairs of the guardian deity.
Lower photo shows the house that fitted the snowy district near the guardian deity.

上の写真の右側に見える桜が鎮守様の階段の桜です。
下の写真は鎮守様近くの雪国に適応した家屋です。

A distant view of Hakusan Mountain

白山を遠望

 view of Hakusan Mountain from a front of Yamanaka Onsen

< 6.  a view of Hakusan Mountain from a front of Yamanaka Onsen


A distant view from Toyama Bay

富山湾からの遠望

Unfortunately Tateyama Mountain Range covered with snow was indistinct by spring haze.

雪を被った立山連峰は残念ながら春霞で不明瞭でした。


a view of Tateyama Mountain and cityscape from a observation tower in Toyama Bay

< 7.  a view of Tateyama Mountain and cityscape from a observation tower in Toyama Bay >
This area had prospered as a base of marine transportation from long ago.
The old cityscape has remained even now.

この地は古くから海運の拠点として栄えて来ました。
その古い街並みが今に遺っています。


A fishing village in Noto Peninsula

能登半島の漁村

the fishing village in Sosogi Seashore 

< 8.the fishing village in Sosogi Seashore >
Because of facing the Sea of Japan, in winter, this area has been exposed to the severest wind and snow in Noto Peninsula.

ここは日本海に面しており、能登半島でも、冬、最も厳しい風雪にさらされる地域です。





















Sunday, April 20, 2014

Travel to Hokuriku 5: Hot spring areas and landscape positions

 Kurodani Bridge, Yamanaka Onsen

< 1.  Kurodani Bridge, Yamanaka Onsen

I introduce to you hot spring areas and photo locations that I had visited.
今回宿泊した温泉地と撮影スポットを紹介します。

This map shows the path of my trip 

< 2.  This map shows the path of my trip >
Hakusan Mountain is in the lower center of the map, and Tateyama Mountain is in the right side of the map.
Red-colored number shows main photo locations.
1: Yamanaka Onsen.  2: Teodri Ravine.
3: Toyama Bay.       4: Himi Seacoast.
5: Wakura Onsen.     6: SkyDeck.
7: Wajima, and morning bazaar.  8: terracedsteps, and Sosogi Seacoast.
Black lines show photo locations during car travel.

白山が地図の中央下部、立山が地図の右端にあります(濃い茶色)。
赤字の番号が主な撮影スポットです。
1:山中温泉。2:手取峡谷、鳥越城趾。1と2の間に道の駅・こまつ木場潟。
3:富山湾、北前船廻船問屋街(岩瀬の町)。4:氷見海岸
5:和倉温泉、能登食彩市場。 6:別所岳スカイデッキ。
7:輪島、朝市。  8:千枚田、曽々木海岸。
黒線はドライブ中の撮影スポットです。

Yamanaka Onsen

山中温泉


a river flows through the center of the hot spring area 

< 3.  a river flows through the center of the hot spring area >

In the famous hot spring in Ishikawa Prefecture, Yamanaka Onsen will be the hot spring that is in nearly the ravine.
Here is the historical hot spring that Matsuo Basho loved.

石川県の有名な温泉の中で、最も山峡の温泉と言えます。
芭蕉が愛した歴史ある温泉でもあります。

main street in Yamanaka Onsen

< 4. main street in Yamanaka Onsen, I took photo in the afternoon 


the source of a hot spring

< 5.  the source of a hot spring, I took photo in the afternoon >
Above:  Traditional arts are played in right building, and left building is the bathhouse for woman.
Below:  It is the bathhouse for man.

上: 右が、伝統芸能が演じられている山中座、左が菊の湯(女湯)。
下: 総湯菊の湯(男湯)。
 

Wakura Onsen

和倉温泉
In the famous hot spring in Ishikawa Prefecture, Wakura Onsen will be the hot spring that is near the seashore most.
Here is suitable for a hub of sightseeing of Noto Peninsula.

石川県の有名な温泉の中で、最も海岸に面した温泉と言えます。
ここは能登半島の観光拠点に適しています。

overlooking Nanao Bay from Wakura Onsen

 6.  overlooking Nanao Bay from Wakura Onsen 


the view from Wakura Onsen,
< 7.  the view from Wakura Onsen, I took photo in the early morning  

the view from the foot bath,

< 8.  the view from the foot bath, I took photo in the early morning >]
If you want stroll of a ravine and a forest, Yamanaka Onsen is recommended.
If you want seashore and delicious seafood, Wakura Onsen is recommended.

渓谷と森林の散策をお望みなら山中温泉がお薦めです。
海岸と旨い魚介類がお望みなら和倉温泉でしょうか。